Under Cabinet Kitchen Lighting: A Complete Buying Guide

Under cabinet lighting, or under cupboard lighting as it is just as often called, is one of the simplest upgrades you can make to a kitchen. It puts light directly onto the worktop where you actually need it, lifts the look of splashbacks and surfaces, and gives you a softer alternative to the ceiling lights in the evening.

The choice is wider than it used to be. You can run lights permanently from the mains, plug them in, or fit rechargeable units with no wiring at all. This guide covers all three, along with colour temperature, fitting types, brightness, switching and installation.

We supply electricians and kitchen fitters from our trade counter on Holloway Road, so the advice here is based on what people actually specify and what tends to cause problems on site.

In this guide:

• Why fit under cabinet lighting
• Mains, plug-in or rechargeable: how to power it
• Strip lights or round cabinet lights
• Warm white, cool white or CCT selectable
• How bright, and how many you need
• Switching and control, including PIR sensors
• Recommended under cabinet lighting from Sparks Direct
• Installation and UK wiring
• Frequently asked questions

Why fit under cabinet lighting?

Kitchen wall units cast a shadow straight across the worktop below them. Ceiling lights make it worse, because you stand between the light and the surface you are working on. Under cupboard lighting solves it by putting the light source below the unit and in front of you.

The practical benefits:

• Even light on the worktop, with no shadow from your own body
• Safer knife work and food preparation
• Better visibility for reading labels, recipes and hob controls
• Very low running cost, with typical fittings drawing between 2W and 18W each
• A warm, low-level glow in the evening without switching the main lights on

That last point is worth planning for. A lot of homeowners end up using under cupboard lights as their main evening lighting, which is a good argument for choosing a warm colour temperature or a dimmable fitting.

Browse Under Cabinet Lights

Mains, plug-in or rechargeable?

This is the decision that determines everything else, so make it first. It depends mostly on whether you are fitting during a kitchen build or retrofitting into a finished room.

Mains-powered (230V) under cabinet lighting

Mains under cupboard lights wire permanently into the fixed installation, usually from a switched fused spur or an existing lighting circuit. In the UK this is the standard specification for a new kitchen.

Best for: new kitchens, full renovations, anything you want operated from a wall switch.

Advantages

• No visible plugs, adaptors or trailing leads
• Operated from a normal wall switch alongside the rest of the kitchen lighting
• Nothing to charge and no batteries to replace
• Units can be linked together so a whole run works from one supply

Most 230V under cabinet fittings, including the Knightsbridge UCLCT range we stock, are supplied with a moulded lead and a switch, so the electrician only needs a single supply point. Note that these fittings are 230V mains voltage, not low voltage, so they do not need a separate driver or transformer. That is a common mix-up when people are comparing them to LED tape.

Mains installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician. See the installation section below.

Plug-in under cabinet lights

Plug-in units do exactly what the name suggests. You mount the fitting, run the lead to a socket, and you are done.

Best for: finished kitchens where there is a socket above the worktop, rented properties, and anyone who wants to avoid an electrician's bill.

The compromise is the lead. Unless there is a socket tucked behind an appliance or inside a cupboard, you will be looking at a cable running down the wall. Some people route it through the back of a unit or behind a splashback to hide it.

Rechargeable and wireless under cupboard lights

This is the category that has changed most in the last few years, and it is worth taking seriously rather than treating it as the budget option.

Modern USB rechargeable cabinet lights are slim aluminium units with built-in magnets, a lithium battery and usually a PIR motion sensor. You charge them from a USB supply every few weeks, stick them under the unit on the supplied magnetic strip, and they light up when you reach under the cupboard.

Best for:

• Retrofitting a finished kitchen with no rewiring at all
• Rented properties where you cannot alter the electrics
• Pantry cupboards, larders and utility rooms
• Inside wardrobes and display units
• Under a cupboard where there is genuinely nowhere to take a supply from

The honest limitation is output. A 4W rechargeable unit will not match a 13W mains striplight over a long worktop, and you do have to remember to charge it. But for a single work area, a pantry, or a run where wiring is not an option, they do the job well and they take about thirty seconds to fit.

We stock the Forum Culina and Electralite slim rechargeable range in three lengths, all with PIR sensors and built-in magnets. Details are in the recommendations section below.

Quick comparison

Strip lights or round cabinet lights?

Once you know how you are powering the lights, the next choice is the fitting shape. This comes down to whether you want a continuous line of light or individual pools.

Linkable LED strip lights

Strip lights, also called striplights or undershelf lights, are rigid linear fittings that mount to the underside of the unit. Linkable versions connect end to end with a short lead, so a run of cabinets can be lit evenly from one supply.

Best for: long worktops, continuous task lighting, modern kitchens, anywhere you want even light with no dark patches between fittings.

Choose the length to suit the cabinet above it. Striplight ranges are usually sized to sit just inside standard UK wall unit widths, so a 300mm unit takes a 277mm fitting, a 600mm unit takes a 538mm fitting, a 900mm unit takes an 838mm fitting and a 1200mm unit takes a 1138mm fitting. That small gap at each end is deliberate, and it leaves room for the lead and the linking connector.

Round cabinet lights (puck lights)

Round cabinet lights, sometimes called puck lights or cabinet downlights, are small circular fittings that give an inpidual pool of light. They can be surface mounted under the unit or recessed into it for a flush finish.

Best for:

• Glass-fronted and display cabinets
• Feature shelving and dressers
• Corner units where a straight fitting will not sit properly
• Accent lighting where you want a decorative effect rather than a flat task light

Spaced evenly under a run of cabinets, they give a scalloped effect on the worktop, which some people like and some do not. If you want unbroken light for food preparation, go with strip lights.

Flexible LED strip (LED tape)

For bespoke work, LED tape is the most versatile option. It bends around curves, cuts to length at marked intervals, and disappears into an aluminium profile or a shadow gap.

Best for: breakfast bars, curved islands, plinth lighting, glass shelving and anywhere a rigid fitting will not fit.

The trade-off is complexity. LED tape is low voltage, so it needs a correctly sized LED driver, and if you want it dimmable, the driver has to be a dimmable type matched to your dimmer. It is a better fit for a fitter or electrician than a first DIY job.

Browse Flexible LED Strip Lighting

Warm white, cool white or CCT selectable?

Colour temperature has more effect on how a kitchen feels than almost any other lighting decision. Our room-by-room guide to colour temperature covers this in full, but here is the short version for under cupboard lights.

3000K warm white gives a soft, comfortable light with a slight yellow cast. It suits traditional and Shaker kitchens, wood and cream units, and open-plan rooms where the kitchen runs into a dining or living space. If you use your under cupboard lights as evening lighting, this is usually the right choice.

4000K cool white is a neutral, crisp light. It shows food colour accurately and is the better choice for detailed preparation. It suits handleless, grey and gloss kitchens, utility rooms and anywhere the space is purely functional.

6500K daylight is a very cold blue-white. It has its place in a garage or workshop but is generally too harsh for a domestic kitchen worktop.

CCT selectable fittings let you choose between settings using a small switch on the unit before you fit it. This is the safest option if you are undecided, or if you are fitting before the kitchen is finished and cannot judge how it will look against the final worktop and splashback.

One practical point that catches people out: match the under cupboard lights to the ceiling lights. Two different colour temperatures in the same room is far more noticeable than either one on its own, and it is an expensive mistake to correct once everything is fitted.

How bright, and how many do you need?

There is no need to over-think this, but a little planning saves a lot of frustration.

Rule of thumb for a worktop: aim for a continuous run of light covering most of the length of each wall unit. For striplights, that means matching the fitting to the unit width as described above, then linking the fittings together across the run. For round fittings, allow one per 300mm to 400mm of worktop for reasonably even coverage, or one per cabinet if you only want accent light.

Position matters more than output. Mount the fitting towards the front edge of the cabinet underside, not pushed to the back. A fitting at the back throws light up the splashback and leaves a shadow at the front of the worktop, which is exactly where you chop. Moving it forward by 100mm makes a bigger difference than doubling the wattage.

Watch the glare. If you have a gloss worktop or a mirrored splashback, a bright fitting mounted too far forward will reflect straight back at eye level. Fittings with a diffuser or a recessed profile help here. So does a dimmer.

Check the IP rating. Most under cabinet fittings, including the Knightsbridge UCLCT range, are IP20. That means indoor use in a dry location only, with no protection against water. Keep them well away from the area directly above and beside the sink, and never fit an IP20 unit where it could be splashed.

Switching and control

This is the part most guides skip, and it is usually what determines whether people are happy with the installation a year later.

Wall switch. The standard approach for mains lighting. Supply the run from a switched fused spur so the under cupboard lights can be operated independently of the ceiling lights. Ask your electrician to position it somewhere sensible, not behind the kettle.

Door switches. A small push-to-break switch mounted inside the cupboard turns the light on when the door opens and off when it closes. These are inexpensive; they cost nothing to run when the door is shut, and they are the neatest solution for larders, pantries, wardrobes and any cupboard you open regularly. We stock surface-mounting and sliding-door versions.

PIR motion sensors. A sensor brings the light on as you approach the worktop and switches it off after a set delay. This is standard on the rechargeable units we stock, since it is what makes the battery last. Mains PIR options are also available. Sensors work best where there is a clear line of approach and no pets setting them off.

Dimming. If you want to dim your under cupboard lights, this has to be planned rather than added later. Two things must line up:

1. The fitting must be a dimmable model. Many under cabinet lights, including the ALL-LED Swift CCT range, are explicitly non-dimmable. Fitting a non-dimmable LED to a dimmer causes flicker, buzzing and premature failure.
2. The dimmer must be an LED-compatible dimmer with a minimum load low enough for the small wattage involved. A run of four 2.5W fittings is only 10W, which is below the minimum load of many older dimmers.

If in doubt, check both the fitting's specification and the dimmer's minimum load before ordering.

Recommended under cabinet lighting from Sparks Direct

Knightsbridge UCLCT linkable LED striplights

Our most popular option for worktops. These are 230V mains voltage, CCT selectable across 3000K, 4000K and 6500K, IP20 rated, and supplied with an integral switch, mounting brackets and a 2 metre power lead. They link together end to end using a separate lead, so a full run of cabinets works from a single supply.

To link fittings together, you will also need the USLED 250mm linking lead (UC250), one per additional fitting in the run.

Round cabinet lights

Two options, and the difference between them matters.

Knightsbridge UNDK3WWW is a 2.5W round fitting giving 195 lumens at 3000K warm white, and it is dimmable. This is the one to specify if the circuit is on a dimmer, or if you want warm evening light under a dresser or display unit. Also available as a pack of three (UNDKIT3WWW), suitable for surface or recessed mounting.

ALL-LED Swift (ACL240 series) is a 2.3W round fitting at 230V with a 1 metre cable, supplied in white, satin nickel and carbon black. It is CCT selectable, so you can set the colour temperature to suit the room. Please note it is non-dimmable, so do not specify it for a dimmed circuit.

Rechargeable PIR cabinet lights

Slim aluminium units with USB charging, a built-in PIR sensor and integral magnets for tool-free fitting. All 4000K.

These are the right answer for a finished kitchen, a rented property, or a pantry cupboard with no supply nearby.

Flexible LED strip

For bespoke and curved installations, see our LED strip lighting range and matching LED drivers.

You can also browse our full Cabinet Lights range, including surface mounted cabinet lights and cupboard door switches.

Installation and UK wiring

Mains installations should be carried out by a qualified electrician. Electrical work in a kitchen may be notifiable under the Building Regulations, and the requirements differ between England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. A registered electrician will confirm what applies to your job and certify the installation to BS 7671.

Plug-in and rechargeable units can be fitted without an electrician, provided you follow the manufacturer's instructions and do not alter any fixed wiring.

Practical points for a tidy job:

• Mount fittings towards the front edge of the cabinet underside to avoid shadows on the worktop
• Plan the cable route before you fix anything, and use the trunking or cable channel at the back of the units where possible
• Keep IP20 fittings well clear of the sink and any splash zone
• Set CCT selectable fittings to your chosen temperature before mounting them, since the selector switch is usually on the back
• If you are linking fittings, order the linking leads at the same time as the lights
• Check dimmer compatibility and minimum load before ordering if the circuit is dimmed

Which should you choose?

• Continuous light along a worktop, new kitchen: Knightsbridge UCLCT linkable striplights, sized to your cabinets
• You have not decided on colour temperature: any CCT selectable fitting, so you can set it on site
• Circuit is on a dimmer: Knightsbridge UNDK3WWW, and check your dimmer's minimum load
• Display cabinet or accent lighting: ALL-LED Swift round cabinet lights
• Finished kitchen, no rewiring possible: Forum Culina or Electralite rechargeable PIR units
• Pantry, larder or wardrobe: rechargeable PIR unit, or a mains fitting with a cupboard door switch
• Curved surfaces, breakfast bars, plinths: flexible LED strip with a matched driver

Frequently asked questions

Which lights are best for under kitchen cabinets?

For a worktop, linkable LED striplights are the best all-round choice. They give continuous light with no dark patches, they link from a single supply, and CCT selectable models let you match the colour temperature to the rest of the kitchen. Round cabinet lights are better for display units and accent lighting than for food preparation.

Is under cabinet lighting mains, plug-in or rechargeable?

All three are available. Mains 230V fittings are standard in a new kitchen and are operated from a wall switch. Plug-in units suit a finished kitchen with a socket nearby. USB rechargeable units with PIR sensors need no wiring at all and are the usual choice for retrofits and rented properties.

Do I need an electrician to fit under cabinet lighting?

Yes for mains-powered fittings. Wiring into the fixed installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician, who will confirm whether the work is notifiable under the Building Regulations in your part of the UK and certify it to BS 7671. Plug-in and rechargeable units can be fitted yourself.

What colour temperature is best for under cabinet lighting?

3000K warm white for a soft, welcoming light, particularly if you use the under cupboard lights in the evening or have a traditional or Shaker kitchen. 4000K cool white for crisper task lighting and modern, handleless kitchens. CCT selectable fittings let you switch between settings, which is the safest choice if you are fitting before the kitchen is finished.

Are rechargeable under cabinet lights any good?

Yes, particularly where there is no practical way to take a supply. Modern USB rechargeable units are slim, magnetic, and usually have a PIR sensor so they only run when needed. They are not as bright as a mains striplight over a long worktop, and they need charging every few weeks, but for pantries, cupboards, rented properties and retrofits they work well.

Can under cabinet lights be dimmed?

Only if the fitting is a dimmable model. Many under cabinet lights are explicitly non-dimmable, and fitting one to a dimmer will cause flicker and shorten its life. You also need an LED-compatible dimmer whose minimum load is low enough for the total wattage, which can be under 20W for a typical run.

How far apart should under cabinet lights be spaced?

For round fittings, allow one per 300mm to 400mm of worktop for even coverage. For striplights, match the fitting to the wall unit width, since ranges are sized to sit just inside standard UK units, then link the fittings across the run. In both cases mount towards the front edge of the cabinet, not the back.

Final thoughts

Under cupboard lighting is one of the cheapest changes you can make to a kitchen and one of the most noticeable. Get the power source and the colour temperature right at the start, and the rest is straightforward.

If you are specifying for a full kitchen and want to check lengths, linking leads or dimmer compatibility before you order, our counter team at Holloway Road is on 020 7263 8007 from 7.30 am, or email sales@sparksdirect.co.uk.

Browse the full range of Cabinet Lights and Under Cabinet Lights, or see all our kitchen lighting.